DAY 17

Monday 7th July 2008 6:33am Nice

This would have to be the worst hotel room yet. It is small and well-worn and in desperate need of a makeover. Our view looks toward the city and hills behind Nice. Lat night we left the windows wide open to allow air in to hopefully dry some of our laundry that we have draped all around the room. Our sleep was punctuated with the sounds of air-conditioners and roosting sea birds. At least the temperature was perfect for a comfortable sleep.

The sun is just peeking over the hills and it looks like it’s going to be another hot sunny day. At first glance Nice appears like so many European towns in that it is old, tired, messy, busy and poorly maintained. From my bed I can see TV antennae perched upon terracotta tiled rooftops of mainly five or six storey light peach coloured apartment buildings. A slight haze veils the distant hills and dozens of swallows dart around in the soft morning light.

7/7/08 7:10am Nice

A thunderstorm rolls around the town postponing an early morning walk before breakfast. The air is still warm and the grey clouds bring rain onto our open windows.

7/7/08 5:40pm Nice

Breakfast was fresh and offered a wide variety of choices. We were driven to Cannes to see where the rich and famous gather every year for the Film Awards. Some political event was about to happen at the place where the celebrities gather, so there were police and security guards everywhere, including in boats and helicopters off the beach. Lots of official looking people were standing around in suits and uniforms obviously waiting for the main political officials to arrive.

We then drove on to Saint Paul de Vence which is a beautiful medieval hilltop town just inland from Nice. It exists inside the original stone walls on a hill and has no vehicles within the walls. The shops are full of beautiful high quality art, clothes, jewelry, fabrics and more. Little cafes nestle amongst the stone walls. We were stunned by at art work by Francais d’Izarny who was born in 1952. The large painting is of a window with a view of Venice, and painter’s brushes and wine and other knick knacks in the foreground. I think Bryan would love it and I will tell him about it. We bought a lovely hand crafted glass pendant for me and a table cloth and napkins for our dining table. The cobblestone street has pebbles arranged in beautiful designs and I wonder if these were done when the village was new. It rained while we were there and we sheltered in doorways of the little shops. The French people in the shops were very friendly and seemed to be of the nature of artists. We bought a Croque Monsieur and shared it as a snack while we walked.

Back at our hotel we quickly changed into our bathers and walked to the “beach” with Trevor and Jacqui. There is no sand, but smooth rocks where people lie in the sun; some topless. It was a real challenge getting across the “pebbles” barefoot then trying to get into the water while the waves broke dramatically on the pebbles. Eventually I pushed off into the shallow waves and was quickly swimming in the deep pale blue milky water of the Mediterranean Sea. The temperature was perfect, cool without being cold. As we splashed about in the waves Lear jets cruised down to land at the nearby Nice airport. Topless women worked on the all-over tans and children buried themselves in rocks and made “rock” castles.

The shopping area near the beach is reminiscent of Surfers Paradise in Australia but without the high-rise buildings. We wandered and looked but bought nothing at the Summer Sales. It is beautiful the way French and Italian women of all ages wear lovely dresses.

Sitting on the grass under palm trees at the part across from our hotel we shared a bottle of chilled Lambrusco with Trevor and Jacqui. Meanwhile tour buses came and went, loading and unloading tourists like us. Lear jets descended to the airport and pigeons pecked around us.

7/7/08 10:05pm Nice

We traveled in the bus to the hillside town of Eze for dinner at a rustic restaurant set upon the stony hillside with a great view of the old town of Eze – the “Eagles Nest” which is perched on a rocky crest towards the sea. Eduardo had expertly negotiated the bus along the narrow winding roads of the cliff, but a tight three-point turn caused him to scuff his white bumper on the base of the rocky cliff-face. His Latin pride was hurt more that the bus I think.

We were greeted with a Kir which is a drink of blackcurrant liqueur and white wine. Then I had shrimp cocktail for entrée and Michael had fish pate. For main course we had Beef Bourguignon which was divine. The wine kept coming and I drank a very light pale peach coloured wine. We had a wedge of Brie for afters and then strawberries and homemade ice-cream for dessert.

Our bus took us down the scenic route following the Three Cornishes past Cliffside homes that view the boats and jets that pass by to Nice or wherever. We saw the road where Princess Grace met her tragic death.

We were a cheerful and rowdy bus load as we drove towards Nice in the fading pink light. Back in our hotel room our clothes are almost dry.

My first impressions of Nice were incorrect. The parks are maintained and the rubbish is picked up. It is a lovely town that is obviously favoured by the rich and famous.